Equipment includes a replacement exhaust system, 15″ steel wheels, a folding rear bench seat, and a Suzuki-Pioneer cassette stereo. Finished in Frosty Blue Metallic over gray cloth, the truck is powered by a 1.6-liter inline-four mated to a three-speed automatic transmission and a dual-range transfer case. Depending upon the wheelbase and other chassis dynamics, some flat towed 4x4s are impossible to back up.This 1989 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4×4 is a hardtop example that spent most of its life in Massachusetts and was acquired by the seller in December 2021, and it now shows 38k miles. (Never flat tow a vehicle with its steering column locked!!!) A two-wheel dolly also works well.It's easier to back up a flat deck trailer or dolly than a four wheeled vehicle on a tow bar. This is less stressful on the 4x4's steering gear/system. I'm a fan of trailering a 4x4 as opposed to flat towing. We tow our trail vehicles on trips beyond a hundred and fifty highway miles each way. A drive there in a short wheelbase Jeep or Geo 4x4 would be daunting. I like your plans for short drives to trailheads and towing the Tracker on longer trips. For low speed performance, the stock exhaust manifold and piping are adequate. Most "gains" from a header reflect the less restrictive exhaust flow. Beyond that engine speed, there would be a noticeable improvement. The header would be a minor improvement in the idle-3,000 rpm range. When trail running, it's gallons per hour, not miles per gallon. The small fuel tanks had us filling up with spare cans of gas. When we drove 1.6L 8-valve Geo Tracker 2-doors over the Rubicon Trail in the mid-nineties (a publicity stunt for Chevrolet), I was surprised how much fuel these engines consumed while performing low range rock crawling. Can't imagine the need to spin this engine beyond 5,000 rpm-ever.Ī torque/RV camshaft will also keep a lid on fuel consumption. You'll have good power to 4500 rpm with a torque/shorter duration camshaft. Again, I would avoid the longer duration camshafts, idle vacuum falls accordingly. This will make trail running sensible by providing more torque at throttle tip-in. For trail use, you want the highest manifold vacuum possible at idle. Knyte.For your needs, a camshaft with more valve lift would be valuable. Long duration camshafts reduce manifold vacuum at idle, affect tip-in throttle and reduce bottom end power.They also throw off the MAP and other EFI readings. On that note, your TBI system would not work well with a longer duration camshaft, another reason to stick with a valve lift increase and mild duration. I would concentrate on reliability and good fuel efficiency. The engine is small displacement with a big job to do. The 3-angle valve seat cutting is common with all contemporary machine shops, so finding a shop will not be an issue. You won't realize bottom end improvement and will be burying your foot in the throttle to get any value from the camshaft change. I would not get carried away with any of the "high performance" camshafts for this engine unless you plan to drive constantly at high interstate speeds. This should be a consideration, especially if you do cylinder head work. Most suppliers recommend a header and cylinder head port matching to support their camshaft change. The Isky camshaft has more than enough valve opening duration, especially if your 8-valve is working at all off-pavement in 4x4 mode. This will provide better low-end torque like your RV camshaft experience and not target power at the high rpm end. My target for overall drivability and decent fuel efficiency would be a camshaft with improved/increased valve lift and only a mild change in duration. For me, the Isky Torquer 260 would be a possibility if you don't want to lose bottom end power. Knyte.There are a variety of camshafts in the market, I looked a several profiles.
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